Google

 

Getting To Pau
Pau is easily accessible from Stanstead with a daily flight from Ryanair which now leaves at 06.20 and arrives in Pau just after 09.00, the return flight leaves at 09.40. The airport is to the north of the town and is only ten minutes from the race and training track. There are also regular flights from and to Paris.

History
Pau is a universiy town which began life as a crossing on the Gave de Pau which rises high in the Pyrenees. It became a centre for the arts and non-conformist thinking when Henri d'Albret married Marguerite d'Angouleme, sister of the King of France in 1567. Their daughter, Jeanne, was an ardent Protestant, and involved the region Bearn, in the Wars of Religion. However when her son, Henri IV, became King of France he pragmatically returned to the Catholic Church remarking that "Paris is worth a Mass". Henri was baptised in traditional Bearnais style with local Jurancon wine and his lips rubbed with garlic. He was nicknamed "vert-galant" for his prowess as a lover and promoted 'poule au pot' as a national dish that even the humblest of his subjects should be able to afford at least once a week.

The town became popular with the English after Wellington and his troops stopped there after defeating Soult at Orthez in 1814. By 1860, 15% of the town was English, their legacy was a race-course, fox-hunting, polo, cricket,golf and rugby. The first 18 hole golf course in mainland Europe was built here and it was also the first to be open to women members. The rail line reached Pau in 1866 and brought Victor Hugo, Stendhal and Lamartine who remarked that while Naples had the best seascape in the world, Pau had the best landscape. Indeed, on a clear day, the view from the escarpment of the Boulevard des Pyrenees is staggering, a hundred kilometre stretch of peaks can be viewed with a kir in hand sitting outside one of the bars and cafes lining the road. From here one can imagine the gruelling moutain stretches that mark one of the real testing grounds of the Tour de France. There is a good programme of cultural events usually listed in the www.pau.fr site.The attractive, old town stretches about two kilometres back from the Boulevard des Pyrenees but takes quite a bit of navigation due to the endless one way system. The old town has all the smart boutiques that make shopping in France so appealing to the fasion conscious and the present buyers.Further to the North and on the way in from the airport the lack of charm is fairly overpowering. However even there one is never far away from a great cup of coffee and a good croissant. It is out this way there are all the large stores including a good Decathlon branch, the sports superstore.
Pau is about 100 kms from Bayonne, Biarritz and the heart of the Basque countryside. It is a short journey from there to the Spanish border and the wonderful seaside city of San Sebastian, home of some of the best restaurants in Spain. it is a 75 minute train journey from Pau to San Sebastian and there are 7 trains a day. From there it is a relativel easy journey to Bilbao and the famous Guggenheim Museum. Toulouse is about 140 kms away on a good motorway and Perpignan about 450 kms. The Parc National des Pyrenees has some spectacular walking opportunities and six ski resorts to be enjoyed, one within fourty minutes. Lourdes is about 40 kms to the east and plays host to over 6 million pilgrims a year. It has spawned an enormous colection of kitsch devoted to the Virgin and Bernadette Soubirous to whom she appeared in a vision.

Hotels
Pau has a number of good value hotels.

Hotel Parc Beaumont, 1 Avenue Edouard VII , on the edge of the Parc and close to the casino it is the newest hotel in town, and the most luxurious, +33 5 59 11 84 00

Hotel Montpensier, 36 Rue Montpensier has parking and is just set back from the street. It has wi-fi and is a short walk into town, +33 5 59 27 42 72

Hotel Roncevaux, 25 Rue Louis-Barthou is central and quiet with 39 rooms.+33 5 59270844

Inter-Hotel de Gramont, 3 place Gramont is a similar size and close to the Chateau.+33 5 59278404

Hotel Postillon, 10 Cours Camou, is just behind the place de Verdun car park.+33 5 59728300

Nearby at Jurancon there is a small hotel, Castel du Pont d'Oly, 2 Avenue Rausky, +33 5 59061340, it has a good restaurant.

Further afield there are two Relais et Chateaux hotels.
Domaine de Bassibe is at Segos, 35 kms north of Pau just off the N134, so the right side of town for the race course. It is closed from January to the end of March. It has 10 rooms and 7 suites. www.relaischateaux.com/bassibe (tel +33 5 62094671)

Les Pres d'Eugenie is at Eugenie-les-Bains, slightly to the north west of Segos and 24 kms south east of Mont-de-Marsan. This rates a 19 (there are only16 others in France and one 20!) in Gault Millau, and is run by Christine and Michel Guerard.It is closed from December 2nd to the 20th and again from January 7th to march 15th.There are 30 rooms and 10 suites. www.relaischateaux.com/guerard (tel +33 5 58050607 )

Food and Drink
Being a university town there is a multi cuisine choice in Pau, Moroccan, Indian, Chinese and Japanese can all be found as well as the wonderful local cuisine: foie gras, cassoulet, Basque ham, oysters from Arcachon, poule a pot...

Le Berry, 4 Rue Gachet is a very popular brasserie. No bookings taken, but it is well worth the wait. It specialises in Chateaubriand with sauce Bearnaise. It closes at two for lunch..
La Taverne de Maitre Kanter, 5 Rue Alfred de Lassence,is a very acceptable alternative. It is part of a group originating in Alsace. It is open from Midi to Minuit, 7 days a week.(tel +33 5 59837680)
Le Majestic, 9 Place Royal, has cutting-edge cuisine and is not expensive. It is closed Sunday evenings and all day Monday. (tel +33 5 59 27 56 83)
Chez Pierre, 16 AuRue Louis-Barthou, is an old established favourite. (tel + 33 5 59277686)
La Table d'Hote, 1 Rue du Hedas is not expensive and very good but do not expect to eat in a hurry. (tel + 33 5 59275606)

Le Saint-Jacques, 9, Rue du Parlement, near the Chateau. The chef's wife is English and it is one of the better restaurants in a busy square, www.lesaintjacques.org (tel +33 5 59275897)

Au Bon Coin, at Lons opposite the northern end of the training track on the way to the airport is an excellent restaurant with an outside eating area at the back and is ten minutes to the airport. www.pauboncoin.com (tel + 33 5 59322599)

At Jurancon there is a gastronomic treat in store at Chez Ruffet, 3 Avenue Charles-Touzet. It now has a Michelin star and is charming and serves exciting seasonal food, prepared by Stephan Carrade.www.pyreneesonline.chezruffet.fr (tel +33 5 59062513)

At Lons, opposite the racecourse entrance there is Le Fer a Cheval, 1 avenue des Martyrs-du-Pont-Long. It is also a hotle. www.leferacheval.com (tel +33 5 59321740)

At Bosdarros, there is the Auberge Labarthe, Rue Pierre-Bidau, (tel +33 5 59215013). It is on the way to Oloron

Wine
The area is renowned for two local wines, Jurancon and Madiran. Jurancon is white and comes from two grape varieties, petit manseng and gros manseng. There is a sec and a doux., the latter is highly prized and goes particulalrly well with both Foie Gras and Oysters! Colette wrote of it "When I was a young girl,I was introduced to a pasionate prince, domineering and two-timing like all the great seducers; Jurancon" Paul Strang in his excellent "Wines of South-West France" writes, "Simply to describe a Jurancon as sweet gives no idea of its individuality. A mature wine will be a deep golden colour. Writers have long vied with each other to describe the exotic character of the bouquet and flavour of these wines. Pineapple, guava, nutmeg and cinammon have all been detected; mango and quince have suggested themselves to others, but all are agreed about the honey and wild flowers. Wines of a great year will keep indefinitely, darkening as they age. A sweet Jurancon can be drunk as young as four years, but ten is usually regarded as a minimum."

Madiran is principally made from the tannat grape. It probably needs at least seven years before it can be drunk, and so is pretty uncommercial. one of the best producers is Domaine Berthomieu, its premier wine being the Cuvee Charles de Batz which is 80/90% tannat. It is a wonderful winter wine.

Just north of Pau is the town of Condom, the heart of the Armagnac country. The Mayor, with a fine sense of humour has opened a museum, primarily for passing Brits celebrating the other history of the town. For those who find brandy too fiery, the smoothness of Armagnac is delightful.


Weather
Click here for 5 day weather forecast for PAU