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Getting
To Pau
Pau is easily accessible from Stanstead with a daily flight from
Ryanair which now leaves at 06.20 and arrives in Pau just after
09.00, the return flight leaves at 09.40. The airport is to the
north of the town and is only ten minutes from the race and training
track. There are also regular flights from and to Paris.
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History
Pau is a universiy town which began life as a crossing on the Gave
de Pau which rises high in the Pyrenees. It became a centre for
the arts and non-conformist thinking when Henri d'Albret married
Marguerite d'Angouleme, sister of the King of France in 1567. Their
daughter, Jeanne, was an ardent Protestant, and involved the region
Bearn, in the Wars of Religion. However when her son, Henri IV,
became King of France he pragmatically returned to the Catholic
Church remarking that "Paris is worth a Mass". Henri was
baptised in traditional Bearnais style with local Jurancon wine
and his lips rubbed with garlic. He was nicknamed "vert-galant"
for his prowess as a lover and promoted 'poule au pot'
as a national dish that even the humblest of his subjects should
be able to afford at least once a week.
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The town became popular with the English after
Wellington and his troops stopped there after defeating Soult at
Orthez in 1814. By 1860, 15% of the town was English, their legacy
was a race-course, fox-hunting, polo, cricket,golf and rugby. The
first 18 hole golf course in mainland Europe was built here and
it was also the first to be open to women members. The rail line
reached Pau in 1866 and brought Victor Hugo, Stendhal and Lamartine
who remarked that while Naples had the best seascape in the world,
Pau had the best landscape. Indeed, on a clear day, the view from
the escarpment of the Boulevard des Pyrenees is staggering, a hundred
kilometre stretch of peaks can be viewed with a kir in hand sitting
outside one of the bars and cafes lining the road. From here one
can imagine the gruelling moutain stretches that mark one of the
real testing grounds of the Tour de France. There is a good programme
of cultural events usually listed in the www.pau.fr site.The attractive,
old town stretches about two kilometres back from the Boulevard
des Pyrenees but takes quite a bit of navigation due to the endless
one way system. The old town has all the smart boutiques that make
shopping in France so appealing to the fasion conscious and the
present buyers.Further to the North and on the way in from the airport
the lack of charm is fairly overpowering. However even there one
is never far away from a great cup of coffee and a good croissant.
It is out this way there are all the large stores including a good
Decathlon branch, the sports superstore.
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Pau is about 100 kms from Bayonne, Biarritz and
the heart of the Basque countryside. It is a short journey from
there to the Spanish border and the wonderful seaside city of San
Sebastian, home of some of the best restaurants in Spain. it is
a 75 minute train journey from Pau to San Sebastian and there are
7 trains a day. From there it is a relativel easy journey to Bilbao
and the famous Guggenheim Museum. Toulouse is about 140 kms away
on a good motorway and Perpignan about 450 kms. The Parc National
des Pyrenees has some spectacular walking opportunities and six
ski resorts to be enjoyed, one within fourty minutes. Lourdes is
about 40 kms to the east and plays host to over 6 million pilgrims
a year. It has spawned an enormous colection of kitsch devoted to
the Virgin and Bernadette Soubirous to whom she appeared in a vision.
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Hotels
Pau has a number of good value hotels.
Hotel Parc Beaumont, 1 Avenue Edouard VII , on the edge
of the Parc and close to the casino it is the newest hotel in town,
and the most luxurious, +33 5 59 11 84 00
Hotel Montpensier, 36 Rue Montpensier has
parking and is just set back from the street. It has wi-fi and is
a short walk into town, +33 5 59 27 42 72
Hotel
Roncevaux, 25 Rue Louis-Barthou is central and quiet
with 39 rooms.+33 5 59270844
Inter-Hotel
de Gramont, 3 place Gramont is a similar size and close
to the Chateau.+33 5 59278404
Hotel
Postillon, 10 Cours Camou, is just behind the place de
Verdun car park.+33 5 59728300
Nearby at Jurancon there is a
small hotel, Castel
du Pont d'Oly, 2 Avenue Rausky, +33 5 59061340, it has
a good restaurant.
Further afield there are two Relais et
Chateaux hotels.
Domaine de Bassibe
is at Segos, 35 kms north of Pau just off the N134, so the right
side of town for the race course. It is closed from January to the
end of March. It has 10 rooms and 7 suites. www.relaischateaux.com/bassibe
(tel +33 5 62094671)
Les
Pres d'Eugenie is at Eugenie-les-Bains, slightly to the
north west of Segos and 24 kms south east of Mont-de-Marsan. This
rates a 19 (there are only16 others in France and one 20!) in Gault
Millau, and is run by Christine and Michel Guerard.It is closed
from December 2nd to the 20th and again from January 7th to march
15th.There are 30 rooms and 10 suites. www.relaischateaux.com/guerard
(tel +33 5 58050607 )
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Food and
Drink
Being a university town there is a multi cuisine choice in
Pau, Moroccan, Indian, Chinese and Japanese can all be found as
well as the wonderful local cuisine: foie gras, cassoulet, Basque
ham, oysters from Arcachon, poule a pot...
Le
Berry, 4
Rue Gachet is a very popular brasserie. No bookings taken, but it
is well worth the wait. It specialises in Chateaubriand with sauce
Bearnaise. It closes at two for lunch..
La Taverne de Maitre
Kanter, 5 Rue Alfred de Lassence,is a very acceptable
alternative. It is part of a group originating in Alsace. It is
open from Midi to Minuit, 7 days a week.(tel +33 5 59837680)
Le Majestic,
9 Place Royal, has cutting-edge cuisine and is not expensive. It
is closed Sunday evenings and all day Monday. (tel +33 5 59 27 56
83)
Chez Pierre,
16 AuRue Louis-Barthou, is an old established favourite. (tel +
33 5 59277686)
La Table d'Hote,
1 Rue du Hedas is not expensive and very good but do not expect
to eat in a hurry. (tel + 33 5 59275606)
Le Saint-Jacques, 9, Rue du Parlement, near
the Chateau. The chef's wife is English and it is one of the better
restaurants in a busy square, www.lesaintjacques.org (tel +33 5
59275897)
Au Bon Coin, at Lons opposite the northern
end of the training track on the way to the airport is an excellent
restaurant with an outside eating area at the back and is ten minutes
to the airport. www.pauboncoin.com (tel + 33 5 59322599)
At Jurancon there is a gastronomic
treat in store at Chez
Ruffet, 3 Avenue Charles-Touzet. It now has a Michelin
star and is charming and serves exciting seasonal food, prepared
by Stephan Carrade.www.pyreneesonline.chezruffet.fr (tel +33 5 59062513)
At Lons, opposite the racecourse
entrance there is Le
Fer a Cheval, 1 avenue des Martyrs-du-Pont-Long. It is
also a hotle. www.leferacheval.com (tel +33 5 59321740)
At Bosdarros, there is the Auberge
Labarthe, Rue Pierre-Bidau, (tel +33 5 59215013). It
is on the way to Oloron
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Wine
The area is renowned for two local wines, Jurancon
and Madiran.
Jurancon is white and comes from two grape varieties, petit manseng
and gros manseng. There is a sec and a doux., the latter is highly
prized and goes particulalrly well with both Foie Gras and Oysters!
Colette wrote of it "When I was a young girl,I was introduced
to a pasionate prince, domineering and two-timing like all the great
seducers; Jurancon" Paul Strang in his excellent "Wines
of South-West France" writes, "Simply to describe a Jurancon
as sweet gives no idea of its individuality. A mature wine will
be a deep golden colour. Writers have long vied with each other
to describe the exotic character of the bouquet and flavour of these
wines. Pineapple, guava, nutmeg and cinammon have all been detected;
mango and quince have suggested themselves to others, but all are
agreed about the honey and wild flowers. Wines of a great year will
keep indefinitely, darkening as they age. A sweet Jurancon can be
drunk as young as four years, but ten is usually regarded as a minimum."
Madiran is principally made from the tannat grape.
It probably needs at least seven years before it can be drunk, and
so is pretty uncommercial. one of the best producers is Domaine
Berthomieu, its premier wine being the Cuvee Charles de Batz which
is 80/90% tannat. It is a wonderful winter wine.
Just north of Pau is the town of Condom, the heart
of the Armagnac country. The Mayor, with a fine sense of humour
has opened a museum, primarily for passing Brits celebrating the
other history of the town. For those who find brandy too fiery,
the smoothness of Armagnac is delightful.
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Weather
Click
here for 5 day weather forecast for PAU
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